vienna with kids (the summer edition)

Last Updated on December 1, 2022

I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect from a trip to Vienna with kids. It had always felt like such a splendid, grand and grown-up city. Introducing it to my rascally kids seemed a little impertinent.

Turns out – like a favourite great aunt – behind its imposing exterior lay an impish, playful side. Yes, Vienna was a city ready to spoil you with cake, rides at the fair and trips to the playground.

And so, although Vienna might not seem like an obvious summer city break – I can’t think of a holiday we’ve liked more. Of course, it didn’t hurt that the weather was glorious too.

This is far from a definitive list of everything there is to do in Vienna with kids (that blog post would be close to never-ending), but it gives a taste of our highlights. As you’ll see, most of the recommendations come based on lashings of beautiful Austrian sunshine, although there are a couple of outings which would work well on a rainy day too.

Our highlights

The WurstelPrater

From vintage carousels to splashy log flumes, this amusement park (situated within the larger Prater park) knows how to both charm and thrill.

Dating from 1766, the Prater has been the backdrop to a World Exhibition and concerts by Strauss. It is now most famous for appearing in 1949 classic The Third Man. If like me, you are partial to film noir and a plot twist, it is well worth (re)watching the film before you go. That way, you can appreciate a little of Vienna’s post-war history and the iconic status of the giant Ferris wheel.

But, history aside, the Prater makes a head-spinningly fun afternoon out, with options for toddlers through to adults. From mid-March until the end of October, it opens daily from 10am – midnight. It is free to enter, although at around 2 euros each, the cost of rides can add up. If you plan to go on lots of attractions, consider the ticket packages which are sold in booths across the park.

Playgrounds galore

Vienna has no shortage of playgrounds. Erin at Kinderculture lists some lovely ones – but even if you aren’t looking, it is hard not to stumble over a clean and well-maintained play area. As an added summer bonus – many have brilliant water areas.

Close to the Prater are both kinds. There is a great wild-west themed park on the Jesuitenwiese meadow with an epic slide. Then, a short stroll away, Max Winter Park is a  community space with splashy water tunnels and fountains. Bring swimming costumes and a towel. While you are there, it would seem a shame not to stop for an indulgent snack at The Cake Tree.

More fun water play awaits at the Danube Water Island playground (Wasserspielplatz Donauinsel). Like the Prater, this lovely play-space is free to enter and lies to the northeast of the city. Here children can wade through pools, build sandcastles, ferry across the pond on a pontoon and play with a model lock system. Again, swimming attire is a good idea, as is a beach mat and some buckets and spades. If you need some supplies, there is a small kiosk selling beach toys, ice cream and drinks. Showers are on hand for when you need to clean up.

It would be possible to spend a full afternoon around the rest of Donauinsel. To the west of the island, there is another good-sized playground as well as lots of spots where you can swim directly in the Danube. We weren’t feeling quite that brave, but we did enjoy dipping our toes in. Although we didn’t see them, there are trampoline and climbing parks here too.

For even more summer fun, Copabeach – on the opposite side of the river to the Prater – is also free to enter. Along with deckchairs on a beach, there is a good variety of restaurants. Older kids may fancy hiring a canoe or paddleboard from here.

Schönbrunn Palace

Home to many a Habsburg Emperor, Schönbrunn Palace is opulence itself. We didn’t risk a tour of the interiors with our two kids. If this is something you are keen to do, buy a ticket online, as the queues can be as far-reaching as the palace’s history.

Instead, we stuck to exploring the palatial grounds: chasings around mazes, climbing in the maze playground and eating our picnic lunch on a bench. We followed this with a trip to the excellent Children’s Museum to learn a little about how the young Habsburgs lived. Packed full of toys, puzzles, beautiful interiors and dressing up opportunities – this was a real royal treat.

We chose to buy a combined ticket to the maze and the children’s museum. It is also possible to buy a ticket that includes these attractions, plus the zoo. If you want to make a full day of it, and don’t mind missing the maze, consider a family pass. This gets you a tour of the palace and entrance to the Children’s Museum and Schloss Hof, where there are adventure paths through the grounds and a farm.

The vibrant MuseumsQuartier

Spread over 90,000m², Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier is bursting with art, culture and play. Before visiting, it is wise to check out what exhibitions and family events are on – during the summer holidays, there is usually a huge choice.

A sure-fire winner is a trip to Zoom Kindermuseum – just be warned, it is crucial to book before you go (some workshops can book up days in advance). If you haven’t been organised enough to make a reservation though, exploring the district, soaking up the atmosphere and clambering on the iconic courtyard seating is still a good choice. The nearby interactive House of Music Museum also looks great fun.

More cultural treats with a side of play

Vienna was my birthday trip, and I was keen not to miss the chance to see Klimt’s The Kiss at the Belvedere Palace. On this occasion, we decided it was best for my toddler to stay with her dad at the playground in the gardens, while me and my 7-year-old went inside for the art.

The Kiss, alongside an impressive permanent collection, is housed in the Upper Belvedere. I bought a ticket for just this gallery – although it is possible to purchase combined tickets with the Lower Belvedere too. Or you can delight in the contemporary art exhibitions in Belvedere 21. Kids under 18 can enter for free and there is a museum trail for 6-12 year-olds available in English available at the Upper Belvedere ticket office. Just try and get there early (or late) to avoid being swallowed in the crowds.

Of course, it would be impossible to top the thrill of seeing one of the world’s most beautiful paintings. That said, we had a brilliant time at our next stop too.

A ten-minute walk from the Belvedere is Familienbad Schweizergarten. This fun swimming pool has clean changing rooms, a playground and a (tame) waterslide. A perfect place for some silliness after all our high-brow art appreciation.

With fairly shallow water and free entry for children (adults €3.20), Familienbad Schweizergarten is one of the handful of family pools which doesn’t permit entry to anyone above 15 unless accompanied by a child. Expect plenty of splashes and squeals of delight.

The cake

It would be rude to come to Vienna and not partake in ‘Kaffee und Kuchen’ in one of its elegant cafes. The Vienna Insider has a beautiful post about some of the best traditional cafes in the city.

We headed to Café Central, although when we saw the queue snaking out of the door, we soon retreated and instead made our way to Demel. Although it was busy, we found a table upstairs. Beautifully grand, the service was friendly, and our kids welcomed. I chose a slice of Esterhazy torte from the generous selection at the counter and I didn’t regret it. My kids were delighted with the ice-cream.

For a sweet souvenir, stock up on Manner’s Neopolitan wafer biscuits from any supermarket. A classic Austrian treat, they are worth buying for the pink wrapping alone.

Getting around Vienna with kids

Vienna has a clean and efficient transport system. We mainly took the U-Bahn (underground), although there are trams and buses too. At the time of writing, children under six can travel for free and 6–15-year olds are able to get discounted travel (and free travel during the school summer holidays, Sundays and public holidays). Have a look here to check the current rules. We bought a 72-hour pass – although lots of different tickets are available. You can also buy tickets on your mobile.

Vienna is also known for being one of the world’s most accessible cities. This was borne out by our experience of travelling with a pushchair: subway stations had lifts, buses had low floors and pavements were wide and even.

Where to stay in Vienna with kids

We opted to stay in a cute Airbnb apartment across from the Prater. Although it was located away from the city centre, it suited our itinerary well and was a short walk to the metro and supermarket. Our kids also liked the rocking horse and box of toys. If I was being picky, I would say the lack of a proper living room was the only downside (there is a TV nook upstairs). That said, I would happily stay there again and the host provided us with lots of great recommendations for neighbourhood restaurants and playgrounds.

If you haven’t used Airbnb before, please feel welcome to use my referral code when booking, so we can both get a discount on our next trip.

Across the other side of town, Gabriel’s Apartments also look to be a clean and convenient option for families. The aparthotel has a range of soundproof studios, one and two-bedroom apartments. All come equipped with kitchenettes, dishwashers and washing machines. Again, these apartments are across the road from a metro station – although unfortunately Pilgramgasse is closed for reconstruction until January 2020. However, other stations are only a ten-minute walk away. The location is also handy for stocking up on supplies at Vienna’s famous Naschmarkt. For an apartment in the heart of the city, this large one-bedroom place also looks like a good choice.

If you prefer a hotel, the Novotel Wien Hauptbahnhof is between the central station and the Belvedere Palace and has soundproofed family rooms, as well as a gym and a children’s playroom. Alternatively, Hotel König von Ungarn may be on the more expensive side, but it comes with lots of old-world Austrian charm. The maisonette room has a large double and two single beds.

Final thoughts on Vienna with kids

For a combination of cultural treats, cake and play – Vienna is now our one to beat. Certainly, I hope it won’t be too long before we are back again. If you have any Vienna tips, please do leave me a comment.

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