It’s easy to get giddy over Český Krumlov in the South Bohemian region of the Czech Republic. Even as a 13-year-old – when my main interests were Nirvana albums and mood rings – I knew I was visiting somewhere special. And this was in the early-1990s when many of the building’s colourful facades were faded, and the medieval castle’s pastel-tinted Renaissance tower was shrouded in scaffolding.
Nowadays, this UNESCO-listed town, around two hours south of Prague, is even more picture-postcard-ready. Photographers could spend weeks here documenting the pretty alleyways and handsome Gothic houses.
Which, if you’re a parent, is probably already filling you with dread. After all, romantic destinations and energetic kids are rarely a match made in heaven.
But don’t lose heart. Behind all the beauty (and my word, it really is beautiful), Český Krumlov is a brilliant place to visit with kids.
Here are lots of kid-friendly things to do in Český Krumlov, as well as some great family restaurants and hotels, which make a trip with children a much better idea than it might first appear.
What to do in Český Krumlov with kids?
Hands-on history at 3+ gallerie
The Czechs have a deserved reputation for their world-class beer. Yet, they warrant equal kudos for their wonderful children’s museums. Proving this point is 3+gallerie, a playful museum housed within a medieval monastery complex in the town’s cobbled centre.
In the cellar, you’ll get an atmospheric glimpse into how the town’s alchemists once tried to conjure up gold. On the ground level, there’s a web of rooms housing an enchanting range of multi-sensory activities.
My 6- and 11-year-olds particularly loved creating their own insect repellent and bath salts, playing traditional Czech games, writing and sealing a scroll and using a printing press. We also enjoyed braving the creaky stairs to the attic, where we found a rather charming set of ghouls.
I’d planned for us to stay around an hour, but over two hours had passed before I prised my kids away. And this was without even stepping foot in the exhibition of children’s book illustrations, which is paid for separately and features a small toddler-friendly soft play area, plus a crafting and colouring table and trail.
We were kindly given a free family entry to the gallery in return for a review, although my enthusiasm is heartfelt. This was one of the favourite things we did during the whole summer holidays.
Picturesque playgrounds
Český Krumlov’s historic centre is compact and easy to explore on foot. All the same, it helps that there are some playgrounds squirrelled away around its medieval core, making ideal pit stops for younger ones weary of sightseeing.
The playground on Hradební Street is outside Retro Café (so ideal for a drink or meal on the terrace). You’re also a stone’s throw from the community hub Pradelna, which hosts exhibitions and concerts in the summer months.
If you need other options, there’s a small playground and fitness area in the leafy city park. Then, a short walk south is a traffic rules playground where kids with scooters and bikes can zoom around miniature roads.
On a summer’s day, find the playground next to the well-rated Restaurace Na Hrázi, which is also flanked by a large bouncy pillow, beach and outdoor swimming pool. The restaurant has affordable triple and quadruple rooms and is a ten-minute walk from the town centre.
Castle gardens and tower
With its six-storied tower and soaring walls, Český Krumlov’s castle complex sits high above the town, constantly drawing your eyes upwards to its jumbled beauty (it was built over the course of six centuries and is a showcase of architectural styles). It’s possible to take a private English-language tour of the ornate interiors, which include the best-preserved Baroque theatre in Europe.
But, if that sounds like hard work with younger kids, you can opt to roam the free-to-enter 10-hectare, manicured gardens. These can be reached via a 15-minute (uphill) walk through a series of pretty courtyards and passageways through the castle grounds from the town centre. Within the gardens, you can stop for a snack at the cafe at the base of the 1950s open-air revolving theatre (performances over the summer months with English subtitles).
Another fun option is to clamber up 162 steps to reach the top of the castle tower for some panoramic city views. To do this, buy a ticket to the castle museum and tower.
Just a note that the castle moat has been home to bears for centuries. I disliked it when I was there in the 90s, and I’m not a fan now. I mention it here in case it’s of interest (and to be fair, the bears have been rescued from circuses, and the authorities have improved the habitat over the years, so it is on par with a good zoo).
The Mirror Maze
This smallish maze is a fun kid-friendly stop while exploring. Get lost in your own reflection, then head to the hall containing 90 fairground mirrors for some whoops of delight.
www.krumlov2020.cz/en/mirror-maze/
Wooden rafting
In December 2022, Czech wooden rafting was added to UNESCO’s cultural heritage list. Try out this ancient tradition with a 50-minute guided cruise along the Vltava with the folks at Voroplavba or Maleček Rafting. Happily, the timber rafts are sturdier than the ones used in the 11th century, and children’s life jackets are provided.
If you want something more active, you can also hire canoes and inflatable rafts from Maleček Rafting.
www.voroplavba.cz and www.malecek.cz en/
Disc golf in the Deer Garden
Never heard of disc golf? No, me neither. But think of it as golf with a frisbee. This new course can be found in the pretty Deer Gardens on the northern slopes of Český Krumlov castle, near car park 1. Pop into HOSTINEC DEPO restaurant to hire discs and scorecards. You’ll also find a small amount of play equipment in the grassy park here.
Visit the Christmas market
During winter, some of Český Krumlov’s attractions and restaurants close. All the same, it seems worth visiting from late November through to 6 January, when the town twinkles with festive cheer and the Christmas market sells handicrafts, warming snacks and hot mead. Kids will also enjoy the traditional carousel.
If you are thinking of visiting during early December, you might want to time your trip to witness a rabble of angels parading through the timeworn streets.
Where to eat in Český Krumlov with kids?
Czech cafes and restaurants are very welcoming to children and many will have high chairs and a kid’s menu (or let you order a half portion). And although there are a few tourist traps, Český Krumlov has a host of excellent independent eateries. Here are some family-friendly options:
With a terrace overlooking a wonderful playground, and a menu offering crowd-pleasers such as pizza, spaghetti and chocolate pancakes, this café is an excellent spot for families.
This is the sort of cafe you hope to find in every town. Cool but friendly. Cosy but chic. And most importantly, the beautifully presented food tastes great—a good choice for breakfast.
The burgers and hotdogs at this laidback Czech pub look mighty fine. It reopens in March after going into hibernation in January and February.
Tucked down an alleyway, close to the Castle entrance, this much-loved Italian serves authentic pizza and pasta dishes, and there’s a small amount of outdoor seating. You’re also handy for the monastery gardens should you have little ones who need to charge about before the food arrives. Make sure you bring cash, as credit cards aren’t accepted.
This small bistro is fun spot for breakfast or lunch. Its seasonal menu revolves around a type of open sandwich, as well as featuring soups and pancakes. Closed in January.
For parents looking for their coffee fix and for kids keen on yummy cakes, this beautiful café in a 15th-century house is worth finding.
This place gets mixed reviews online (mainly due to the service,) but it does serve good-looking desserts and has a small playroom at the back with a toddler slide and ball pit.
There was a time when this café was universally adored for its amazing coffee and cake, as well as its small outdoor play area and sandpit. In the summer of 2022, the café changed ownership. It’s hard to say whether the food is as good, but the sandpit is still there. It opens between spring and autumn.
This cute coffee shop near the castle serves excellent waffles, toasted sandwiches and coffee and has some outside seating in the summer.
Part of the Egon Schiele Art Centre (which looks worth visiting in its own right, although not specifically ‘child-friendly’), come here for delicious desserts and more substantial meals in laidback, artsy surrounds.
This modern Czech pub and restaurant has a very small children’s corner with a basket of (slightly sad-looking) toys. If you take a seat on the outside terrace, though, children can run over to play on the little swing and wobble wooden play bridge in the Deer Gardens before their food arrives. This is also where you can hire the equipment for a game of disc golf.
Fresh seasonal ingredients, beers from local microbreweries and a large grassy garden featuring a playground make this restaurant on the edge of town well worth hunting down.
This restaurant serves Czech classics, and its terrace overlooks a playground, bouncy pillow and outdoor swimming pool. It’s about a ten-minute walk from the town centre.
Just north of Český Krumlov’s train station, away from the historic centre, this well-rated café has a good outdoor playground.
Open in the summer months, this container on the banks of the Vltava serves up pancakes, hotdogs (including vegan versions) and ice cream. Seating is scattered about on the grass, and there is often a small bouncy castle for kids. Check out the Facebook page for opening hours.
Where to stay in Český Krumlov with kids?
B&B Krumlov
We stayed in this great value guesthouse close to the castle and with many restaurants nearby. The quadruple rooms are sprawling and spotless – with plenty of room for four people plus luggage. The property works on a self-check-in basis and is handy for parking.
Penzion Krumlov – B&B
Around a ten-minute walk from the heart of town, this friendly pension has good-sized family rooms, as well as car parking and a playground in the garden. The buffet breakfast will make things easier for picky eaters, and complimentary tea and coffee are served all day.
Monastery Garden Bistro & Rooms
This beautiful period bed and breakfast sits close to the castle, moments from the 14th-century monastery complex and its lawned garden. The studio suite – with its double and sofa bed – provides space for families. The décor and free-standing bathtub look divine. Homemade breakfast is served in the communal dining room and includes kid-friendly options such as French toast and pancakes.
Na Hrázi
This guesthouse and restaurant is a good choice during the warmer months thanks to its location next to a playground, jumping pillow and outdoor swimming pool. The family rooms are practical and unfussy rather than luxurious, and you’re around a ten-minute walk to the town centre.
Villa Harmony
For larger families or those wanting a self-catering option, there’s a good variety of apartments in Český Krumlov. This pretty villa is around a five-minute walk from the historic centre and has one and two bedroom options. Cots and high chairs are available.
Krumlov Tower
Ever dream of sleeping in a 15th-century fairy-tale tower? Well, here’s your chance. The airy two-bedroom suite is full of period features and comes with a coffee machine, board games and soundproofing. Come morning, a breakfast basket will arrive at your door. You’re also well-placed for restaurants, museums and car parking.
How to get to Český Krumlov from Prague?
The drive from Prague to Český Krumlov takes just over two hours. There are paid car parks scattered around the centre.
Looking for car hire?
Alternatively, the train between Prague and Český Krumlov takes around two and a half hours. The Man in Seat 61 has lots of helpful information.
Travelling by bus takes between two and a half to three hours. Flixbus services seems to have some of the fastest journey times.
So, is Český Krumlov worth visiting with children?
There’s plenty in Český Krumlov to please both parents and kids. The compact centre makes it manageable for smaller legs (although the cobblestones streets mean it might be better to bring a carrier than a pushchair). For older kids and teens, there is also fun to be had rafting, playing disc golf and swimming (and if all else fails, there’s a bowling alley too).
Plus, you’ll get to spend some time in one of the most beautiful places on the planet. So, there’s that.
If you have any tips for visiting Český Krumlov, please leave a comment below. Also, if you’ll find lots of ideas of things to do in Prague with kids in this post. If travelling between Prague and Český Krumlov, you may also want to stop at the brilliant children’s museum in Pίsek.
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