Last Updated on April 23, 2023
There’s a collective gasp as a group of large, black bats swoop out of the sky and land with a thud on a nearby palm tree.
Everyone in the rooftop bar had been watching the growing mob for a while now, beating their way closer, occasionally getting lost against the heaps of brooding cloud. It feels exhilarating if a little menacing. The crashing ocean and beeping tuk-tuks below us provide the musical score. My pomegranate-laced sundowner is the perfect antidote to the remaining humidity in the early evening air.
It is in this insouciant frame of mind, I mention that I’m thinking of trying surf school tomorrow.
‘You’re brave,’ comes my husband’s response, his eyebrow arched.
Oh, I hadn’t meant to be. But before I can backtrack, my 8-year-old son is suggesting we learn together, and my little girl is grinning and asking if she can come too. And that’s it. I have multiple witnesses and a weight of expectation.
And so this is how, at the age of 41, I find myself the next morning on the soft sand of Weligama beach, organising a surf lesson for me and my son.
Beginners’ surf in Weligama
Located on Sri Lanka’s south coast, around a 2.5-hour drive from Bandaranaike International Airport, Weligama is the perfect destination for those keen to catch their first wave.
Not only is the surf long and consistent, and the sea temperate, but the sandy bottom means a soft landing following a wipeout. There is also an abundance of reasonably-priced surf schools dotted along the palm-lined bay.
Thanks to a friend’s recommendation, we chose Lucky’s Surf School although I had also heard good things about Surf n Lanka. For a 90-minute lesson, it costs around Rs3000 – 5000 per person (approx 20 – 30USD). Lucky’s accepts children aged 6 years and up. Even though we weren’t ever out of our depths, I would only feel comfortable taking along children who are able to swim.
Our instructor was unwaveringly patient, taking us through the basics of technique on the sand, before we ventured out into the waves. To keep us both safe, another instructor joined us in the sea. Having someone help push the board out against the waves was a lifesaver for my somewhat shaky core muscles. And it also meant I could relax knowing a separate instructor had a watchful eye on my son.
Not that I was a natural. In truth, I spent most of my time surfing kneeling up before eventually wobbling off my board. I couldn’t help but feel rather proud of myself for having a try though. My son, on the other hand, popped up the first time. In fact, he loved it so much he was back the next day.
The surfing season in Weligama normally lasts from September through to May.
Après-surf in Weligama
There’s no shortage of places to get a well-deserved post-surf meal, drink or snack in laid-back Weligama. Here are some of our favourites:
Enjoying the sunset at Ceylon Sliders
This light, bright surf hotel on the main road is also home to a café and rooftop bar. This where we first enjoyed the spectacle of the swooping bats. The menu is filled with healthy breakfast options, excellent burgers, speciality coffees and juices.
With lots of steps, the rooftop bar isn’t pushchair friendly, although the overall vibe is inclusive and friendly, so parents should feel comfortable to grab a table for the daily early-evening happy hour and a spot of dinner. The drinks range from pitchers of mojitos to tall glasses of iced sodas. Kids will no doubt enjoy the gelato.
Smoothie bowls for breakfast
A pretty café with a small garden courtyard. Here colourful smoothie bowls and generous helpings of French toast provide the perfect post-surf breakfast. Come later in the day to enjoy poke bowls and jackfruit tacos. The focus here is on healthy food, with plenty of vegetarian and vegan choices.
Yummy vegan ice cream
This super cute ice-cream van, right next to the beach, sells delicious vegan ice cream. Its eco-friendly credentials include using coconut bowls with wooden, recyclable spoons.
Perched at the top of this cool surfer’s hostel, this restaurant is a great place to kick back and enjoy the views over the ocean. It’s a good spot for breakfast – the coconut pancakes are worth a try – but it also serves larger meals, such as burgers and wraps. The food here is all locally sourced and seasonal and there are plenty of meat-free options. Oh and excellent cake.
While there, take time to browse the small shop which sells clothing and accessories from local, ethical brands, including the cool bags from Rice and Carry.
Post-lunch swim at the W15
From noon onwards, non-guests can enjoy the pool and beachside location of this chic boutique hotel when they dine in the garden restaurant. There are a kid’s menu and a good-sized lawn for little ones to race around on.
For a well-earnt indulgence, high-tea at Cape Weligama is just the thing. There is an extensive tea selection – showcasing some of the best home-grown teas – as well as savoury bites, scones with clotted cream and cakes. Tea is served from 3 – 5.30 pm.
Other family-friendly attractions close to Weligama
Aside from surfing, eating and sandcastle-building opportunities, Weligama and the surrounding area has some other fun attractions.
Pausing for play on Weligama beach
Weligama itself has a small playground about halfway along the main beach. Don’t go with high expectations, but it’s a good place for a quick swing or see-saw. Alternatively, a 15-minute tuk-tuk ride down the coast will bring you to Mirissa Jungle Playground. This new adventure park offers a climbing trail and mini-golf and is suited to kids aged 10 +.
Pretty Mirissa is also a good place to spend the afternoon on the beach. Truth be told, we prefer the beach here to Weligama, as the sand is wider and it’s more removed from the road. Salt in Mirissa is a good place to sip a long drink on a sun lounger while kids play (although I can’t vouch for the food, and the service is patchy). During the winter high-season though, the beach can get busy.
Sunset on Mirissa Beach
From November to April, Mirissa is also known for its whale-watching tours. With early starts and often very choppy waters, we have given this a miss with our young children. For who are feeling more adventurous, it’s a good idea to choose an ethical operator who doesn’t get too close and disturb the whales. Sail Lanka offers daytime cruises that include whale watching, paddle-boarding and snacks. It is also possible to take an aerial whale watching trip.
For a beach with swimmable water – without the big waves – head in the opposite direction from Weligama to Wijaya Beach. Here the natural break makes it possible to snorkel and it’s likely you’ll bump into one of the bay’s giant sea turtles. The restaurant named after the beach serves excellent pizza.
Calm swimming at Wijaya beach, Sri Lanka
A little further on from Wijaya, the historic city of Galle is a thirty-minute drive from Weligama. This is a lovely place to come in the late afternoon, as the heat begins to subside, for a stroll around the 17th-century fort walls, a bite to eat and an ice-cream. Isle of Gelato has some of the yummiest treats on the island.
Galle Fort – a UNESCO World Heritage site
We also travelled on from Weligama to Udawalawe National Park – one of the best places in the world to see elephants in the wild. Due to winding, slow roads, it’s best to do this as an overnight trip.
Family-friendly accommodation in Weligama
The Weligama Bay Marriott Resort is a tempting luxury option for those with younger active kids. Not only is there a children’s pool, featuring a small slide, but there’s also a family pool and kid’s club. The beachfront location is convenient for sand play, whereas the spa will be popular with parents. The standard rooms can be fitted with an extra bed and there are larger suites available too.
Also on the beach, the Weligama Bay Resort has family suites featuring two king-sized beds as well as a two-bedroom villa. The good-sized lawn and pool are the cherry-on-top.
The Aura Weligama looks like a good value option with family rooms and a pool. It is a little out of town, so guests will need to jump in a tuk-tuk or have a good stroll down the beach to reach the best restaurants and surfing spots.
Cape Weligama (high luxury) and W15 (chic boutique) are worth a look too.
Weligama Bay
Tips on what to bring
Sri Lanka’s tropical climate means the temperature normally hangs around 30C. For a trip to the beach it is advisable to pack the following:
- High factor sun creams/ sunblock
- Sun hat
- UV swim vests
- Bottles of water (although the thirst-quenching yellow king coconuts are usually available to buy on the beach too)
- Snacks (surfing is hungry work).
You might also want to bring:
- Sand toys
- A bodyboard – great fun in the shallow waves, including for younger kids. You can often buy cheap ones in local beach shops. Decathlon in Battaramula (near Colombo) also sells better quality ones.
Weligama beach at sunset
Final thoughts
Being a city dweller type, I would be the first to baulk at the idea of a family surfing holiday. Turns out, though, it suited us well – with plenty of activity and beach time for the kids, some great food and even the chance for a bit of culture and history in Galle.
From April to October, Arugam Bay – over on Sri Lanka’s east coast – is supposedly an excellent place for beginners through to seasoned surfers. Although, with a driving time of around 7 hours from the airport, not quite so convenient.
Have you been surfing with kids in Sri Lanka? Now our son has caught the bug, I’d love it if you left a comment with your best tips.
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