Last Updated on November 21, 2023
Our first Christmas living in Prague was a bit of a damp squib.
I had spent most of the proceeding week curled up in bed with a particularly gruesome toddler-borne virus. And so, by the time my parents arrived to celebrate, we had sourced a turkey for our Christmas dinner (at Robertson, in case you were wondering) but very little else.
The kids made some crackers out of toilet rolls, and I dashed to the local potraviny (corner shop) for some potatoes and carrots. And we made the most of it.
After three Christmases in Prague, though, we were experts; I knew where to find all the most twinkly markets, soothing cups of hot chocolate and the best festive events.
Here are my tips for having a merry Christmas time in Prague in 2023:
Visit a traditional Christmas market
In search of shiny trinkets and lashings of charm? Prague’s traditional Christmas markets are a must.
Unlike their German counterparts, they remain open throughout Christmas and most run until 6 January. This includes opening on the 24 and 25 December. The Visit Czech Republic website has a full list of Prague Christmas market locations and dates.
The markets further away from the centre offer the most authentic vibe and best prices. But, if you only go to one, make it the beautiful market in Prague’s Old Town Square. The convivial atmosphere is always such a treat.
Go along to admire the splendid Christmas tree (there are daily lighting shows from 16.30 to 21.30, every hour) before exploring the jolly network of stalls. The cups of hot, spiced wine (svařák) or warm mead (medovina) make great antidotes to the cold. Kids will love the non-alcoholic versions.
Discover the most family-friendly hotels in Prague in this post.
Hunt out alternative Christmas markets and events
Don’t just stick with the tourist crowds though. Some of Prague’s lesser-known winter markets are worth visiting for good value gifts and great local food and drink.
Manifesto Winter Market
Open daily, 11am – 10pm
To chow down on tasty food and enjoy warming mulled wine, head to this cashless gastro market in the smart district of Anděl. The modern, stylish vibe is in direct contrast to the glitzy traditional markets, although there is still some old-world charm with a children’s carousel and grand piano on hand for entertainment.
New Town Hall Advent Fair
09.12.2023, 10am to 7pm
This is a sweet free Christmas event for families. Expect craft workshops and theatre performances, as well as a range of local crafts and snacks for sale.
There is also the opportunity to climb the ancient watchtower for views across the city before it closes for winter.
Dyzajn Winter Market
09.12 – 10.12.2023, 10am – 6pm
This free-to-enter, open-air market is located in Výstaviště Praha (Prague’s Exhibition Grounds). It’s a great place to stock up on Czech-designed jewellery and fashion and find some tasty food. And it also comes with the advantage of being on the edge of handsome Stromovka park.
Advent workshop at the National Agricultural Museum
16.12.2023, 10am – 5pm
Prague’s most hands-on, child-pleasing museum is hosting an advent fair. There will be carols, cookie decorating and a large beautiful Christmas tree.
For more tips about some of Prague’s best museums, take a look here.
Jubilee Nativity Exhibition at Clementinum Gallery
25.11. 23 – 07.01.24, 10am – 6pm
Once every hundred years, the best nativity scenes from the Czech Republic are brought together for a special Christmas exhibition. As in 1923, the exhibition will be hosted in the beautiful Clementinum in central Prague, a vast complex of Baroque and Rococo halls.
Enjoy sporting all the little details in the large carved mechanical Jubilee nativity scene, created by dozen of artists. Children can take part in quizzes and build their own nativity scenes.
Find the perfect gift at a Czech design store
Nerudova in Malá Strana where you can find chocolates and other Czech-designed souvenirs
For those with a sweet tooth, Pražská čokoláda sells quality chocolate in very cute tins. Their Nerudova branch is nestled on the picturesque street which leads up to Prague Castle.
On the same street, it is also worth poking your head into Orel & Friends. The store is a treasure trove of Czech-designed products, including toys and homeware.
For swoon-worthy retro pieces, Modernista is a slice of heaven. The shop in the basement of the Obecní dům is full of stunning jewellery and glamourous teacups. While you’re there, swing by for a Czech meal and a Pilsner beer in the art nouveau Plzenska Restaurant.
In the Modernista branch, next to the House of the Black Madonna, there are cubist gems galore. Take the chance to also potter around the cubist design museum and shop (where trinkets are more affordable), then indulge in coffee and cake in the glorious café. The service might be slow, but the interiors make up for it.
Alternatively, go to DOX Centre for Contemporary Art on the outskirts of the city. The gallery shop is brimming with beautiful things. The exhibitions are also worth exploring; kids will love the cafe and small play area.
Here is a little glimpse of the store:
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Spot the carp around town
Only after moving to Prague did I realise how many differences there were between European nations and their Christmas celebrations.
The first thing that nearly tripped me up was that Czechs celebrate on the evening of the 24 December. This is when families traditionally have their Christmas dinner of carp and potato salad.
Then, after all the food has been eaten, the presents magically appear by the tree. Brought by none other than Baby Jesus.
This all seemed a little far-fetched to me. Until, of course, I interrogated my own English cultural beliefs about flying reindeer and a large jolly old man squeezing down chimneys.
To help you get into the Czech Christmas spirit, keep your eyes peeled for large blue buckets filled with live carp. These appear on street corners in the run-up to the big day. Many Czechs will buy their carp in advance and keep them in their bath until Christmas Eve.
Indulge in decadent hot chocolate
Baroque rooftops shining with frost. Cold, misty walks down cobblestone lanes. These are part of the appeal of Prague in the winter.
It’s a good idea, though, to pack your thermals and have a plan for where to warm up. Luckily, you are never too far from a good café in the Czech capital. Or from an excellent European hot chocolate.
It is hard to argue with the knowledgeable folks at Taste of Prague about where to go for the city’s best hot chocolate. Certainly, their choices of Café Savoy and Onesip Coffee are spot on. And the Choco café at Liliová 8 makes a great choice for parents with young children, thanks to their play corner.
I would just add to their list Café Louvre. The decadent pink interior and sense of history (its past patrons include Franz Kafka and Albert Einstein) make it well worth a visit.
Enjoy a Christmas concert
Prague has the most beautiful concert venues and a deserved reputation for world-class music and theatre.
The National Theatre has a range of Christmas concerts, including family-friendly performances of The Nutcracker. For the chance to see the Czech Philharmonic perform, there are also advent and Christmas film music concerts at the Rudolfinum.
There are also performances of The Nutcracker on Sundays throughout the Christmas period in the well-heeled neighbourhood of Vinohrady (thank you, Nataly, for getting in touch with the tip).
In search of something edgier? Jatka 78 has brilliant contemporary circus performances. Just check the website to see if the performance is suitable for non-Czech speakers. Make a night of it and head first to nearby SaSaZu, an award-winning restaurant which serves Asian fusion food.
Admire twinkling lights
Warm up in winter under the glow of Lumina Park in Prague. Photo credit: Lumina Park
Last year, Lumina Park in Prague 6 was hugely popular thanks to its immersive light installations themed around Alice in Wonderland. It’s back in 2023 – with a new soon-to-be-announced theme and will run throughout the winter.
Alternatively, Žluté lázně has opened a trail of twinkling sculptures overlooking the Vltava river. Reviews suggest it is slightly less spectacular than Lumina Park. Entry is ticketed (free for under 3s) and includes a children’s trail.
A half-an-hour drive outside central Prague, you can bask in the glow of the illuminations at Ctěnice Castle from 25 November through to 31 December 2023. The lit-up grounds are free to explore. Or, if you buy a ticket to the permanent exhibition, you can join family craft workshops every Advent Saturday (25/11, 9/12 and 16/12) from 1-6 pm.
Go ice skating
As December arrives, ice rinks pop up all over Prague. Giving the perfect chance to don a snuggly scarf, hire some skates and twirl to your heart’s content.
Or, if you are something like me, tentatively shuffle around hanging onto the edge for dear life.
Praguest has put together a round-up of where to find the best rinks around town. For a great atmosphere, the ice rink in Letna park makes a good choice. This one also has balance aids for young children.
Where to stay in Prague at Christmas 2023
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Prague has lots of sumptuous hotel choices, perfect for feeling cosy when it’s cold outside.
During our first-ever Christmas in Prague (long before we moved there with children), we stayed at Hotel Imperial. Its elegant, comfortable rooms and art nouveau style made it a luxurious haven from the snow.
Understated opulence at Hotel Imperial Prague
Alternatively, Hotel Pod Věží is in the most romantic location, just a few steps from the foot of Charles Bridge. This highly rated, reasonably priced hotel also has a great restaurant serving yummy crepes.
If you prefer an aparthotel, MOOo by the Castle is a wonderful highly rated base for a festive mini-break.
Fairytale setting at MOOo by the Castle apartments
Travelling with your family? Take a look at what to do in Prague with kids.
So, I hope this has provided you with a little festive inspiration. And if you have a great tip about what to do in Prague over the Christmas period, please leave me a comment below.
For more ideas of fun, indoor activities in Prague, take a look at this post.
Merry Christmas!
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2 comments
I do so love your guides, Jenny, they make the city come alive. It’s so refreshing to see a city celebrating Christmas the old-fashioned way without all the artificial glitz and glitter of other cities. However, I think I will give the carp a miss if you don’t mind!
Ah thank you, Scarlett! Prague has plenty of old world charm. And yes, the carp isn’t for me either!