dresden with kids

I first encountered Dresden as a teenager. It was the sweltering summer of 1992 and my parents had made the brave decision of spending their holiday driving from Manchester to Czechoslovakia (as was) with a 13-year-old goth in the back of their Peugeot. I had just coloured my hair purple using a strange-smelling plant dye. In the heat, both the lilac rinse and my thick black eyeliner began to melt down my face.

Maybe it was the fumes from the dye but my memories of our brief stop in Dresden are hazy. I chiefly recall my dad walking my mum, my sister and me around the Old Town, explaining how much of the city had been destroyed during the Allied bombing raids of 1945. Some of the buildings had been restored to their former glory, although parts of the city resembled a building site and the famous domed Frauenkirche still lay in ruins. The church had been left untouched by the previous East German Communist government, both as a war memorial, and a reminder of the violence of the West.

I remember feeling uneasy. For possibly the first time, I had an unflinching real-life lesson in how brutal and complex war could be. But, of course, there was also a message in there about human resilience, hope and renewal.

Over 25 years later, and as a parent of two children myself, we packed up the car ready for our own family trip to Saxony’s capital city. Although with a short hour and a half drive from Prague and a sat nav, rather than a large, folding map, I must admit it felt a bit less like an epic adventure. That said, I felt curious about becoming acquainted with this German city again.

Now best known in Prague as a shopping destination, we found a beautiful and vibrant city, brimming with attractions that far exceeded its malls. Here are our highlights.

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Things to do in Dresden for families

1. A picnic and train ride at Großer Garten (Great Garden)

Just southeast of Dresden’s Old Town, this palatial park is home to a web of long, shady paths, some large, green lawns and a very handsome early Baroque palace. It’s an ideal place for a picnic or a family bike ride (adult, children’s and tandem bikes are available to hire from Dresden’s main station).

It’s the chance rattle through the park on a miniature railway that is the major draw, though. Just don’t be too alarmed if you spot a 10-year-old manning the signal box or a tween driving the train. Since the 1950s, the park railway has been predominately staffed by children, who volunteer in their spare time.

There are five stations spread across the 1.7 kilometres of the park. For all the locations, as well as information about where to find playgrounds and restaurants, take a look at this map. It is possible to do a full circuit, but we chose to hop on at the palace (Bahnhof Palaisteich), pass through the Zoo station, and alight at Hauptbahnhof Gläsernen Manufaktur, where we were met by a serious 9-year-old ticket collector and a shop selling postcards, ice creams and train memorabilia. Choo choo!

2. A see-through factory and a round of crazy golf

We followed our trip on the miniature railway with a quick gawp at the Transparent Volkswagen Factory. If staring through the windows isn’t enough to sate your appetite for this state-of-the-art car factory, it is possible to arrange a tour (English and family options are available, best to book in advance).

We preferred to potter over to the mini-golf course on the edge of Großer Garten. With 18 holes, including loops, ramps and jumps this is well worth the modest entrance fee (8EUR for a family ticket, 3EUR adult, 2EUR child). Even better, the course is next to a fun little playground with a well-equipped sandpit and some rabbit hutches. Should the mood take you, you can also play a round of Pit-Pat (think mini-golf meets billiards).

Be warned – the opening hours of the minigolf course changes depending on the season. For the most up-to-date information, check their Facebook page.

3. Testing our senses at the Museum of Hygiene

Don’t be fooled by the name – this isn’t a sterile museum filled with glass cases and terrifying facts about disease and germs. Instead, the children’s gallery is an interactive delight – dedicated to the exploration of the senses.

With a mirror maze, buttons to press and the chance to set off a loud fart noise, there is little here that primary-aged children won’t enjoy. Information boards are in German, English and Czech and there is full barrier-free access. The museum is between Großer Garten and the Old Town and is open from 10.00 – 18.00 daily, closed Mondays. Check the website for the current price list.

4. A stop at Willy Vanilli

There was no shortage of good ice cream in Dresden. Our favourite place was Willy Vanilli. And not only for the name.

There are six branches across Dresden, selling scrumptious soft-serve ice cream with sprinkles aplenty. We stopped by the small shop-front near the Museum of Hygiene and fell in love with the chocolate and vanilla mix. For added retro kudos, the shop prides itself on using original GDR soft serve machines.

5. Exploring the Altstadt (Old Town)

Although the cranes that stretch over the Altstadt’s skyline hint at its turbulent past, it would be possible to stroll around Dresden’s grand Old Town and be unaware of how much has been rebuilt following the Second World War. But, as many a guidebook will tell you, despite appearances, much of the Old Town is far newer than the New Town.

It took 60 years following its almost complete destruction, but the impressive baroque Frauenkirche now stands at the city’s heart, its immense dome back in pride of place. If you have children aged six and older who like to climb, it’s possible to negotiate steep stairways and a spiralling ramp to the Frauenkirche’s viewing platform. The hard work is rewarded with admirable views over the city and the Elbe.

With our two young children, we skipped this adventure and instead headed to the Zwinger: a baroque palace commissioned by Augustus the Strong as a place for his orangery and court celebrations. And boy did Augustus know how to build a backdrop for a party.

This was very possibly my Dresden sight-seeing highlight. The space to roam and the beautiful musical clock meant my children weren’t unhappy about our visit either. I knew better than to push my luck though; we stuck to exploring the grounds (free of charge) and gave the grown-up museums housing fine art, porcelain and mathematical instruments a miss. Maybe next time.

In the Altstadt, you can also find Dresden’s extensive shopping malls, including the famed Primark. With limited time, we decided to skip this, although we did pause at the good-sized playground opposite the Altmarkt-Galerie Dresden on Wallstraße. My son was in slide heaven.

6. Exploring the Neustadt district (New Town)

If Dresden’s Old Town is all about splendour, the New Town has an edgier more colourful feel. We broke up our time wandering the characterful streets with a trip to Spielplatz Louisengrün playground on Louisenstraße. A great community space with lots of play equipment for big and little kids.

There are many food options in the area, although those with young kids might want to check out Mutzelhaus, opposite the playground. Not only is there a child-friendly menu but the extra outdoor playground here will no doubt please little ones in need of entertainment while waiting for their food.

We made the riskier choice of heading to Lila Soße in Kunsthofpassage Dresden. In part, because I was keen to see this artistic space made up of strange, brightly-coloured buildings filled with independent restaurants and shops. And, also, because I had read good things about the food. Although not an inexpensive choice, it did not disappoint.

I took the kids to explore the interlinked courtyards while waiting for our German tapas and fish dishes to arrive. Seeing the giant giraffe and leaping monkey on the tall mint-coloured building was a particular treat. The real star of the show, though, was the bold turquoise building in the “Courtyard of Elements” whose guttering turns into a wonderful musical instrument during a rain shower.

7. A trip to Dresden zoo

I have mixed feelings about zoos if I’m honest.  However, the animal enclosures at Dresden Zoo appeared to be a good size and the animals well looked after. The zoo grounds aren’t huge, making it a good choice for young children. If you are still worried about tired, little legs, it’s possible to hire small carts from the entrance for a couple of euros.

The zoo’s inhabitants include all the usual suspects, with the chance to spot giraffes, zebras and orangutans, as well as some beautiful koalas. My little girl’s favourite part was the petting zoo and stroking some mild-mannered goats.

Alongside the animals, there are some fun, little playgrounds, including one with some water play. During the summer months, there is also the chance to watch some puppet theatre.

The Zoo is in Großer Garten and is served by the miniature railway. It opens daily, although the hours depend on the season. Check the website for the current price list.

Some other brilliant things to do in Dresden for families

Despite cramming as much as possible into our three-day trip, there was still much more I wanted to do:

• Dresden is home to one of the world’s oldest suspension railways. The mountain station is home to some breathtaking views and a café serving coffee and cake.
• The Erlebnisland Mathematik museum (Adventureland Mathematics) looks like interactive fun – with bubble stations, tunnels to crawl through and an area for preschoolers. It is inside Dresden’s Technology Museum.
• For more museum fun, Dresden’s Transport Museum has the world of buttons to press as well as a flight simulator and mini cars to ride.
• Older children and teens may well get a lot out of visiting the Bundeswehr Museum of Military History. Housed in a striking building – which merges old and new – the exhibitions attempt to look at military history and war in an unbias and challenging way.
• We enjoyed having a little stroll down the banks of the Elbe during our stay (and again this would have been a great place for a cycle or scooter ride). I would love to coincide with the large weekend flea market that happens near the Albertbrücke
• Dresden looks to have some child-pleasing indoor and outdoor swimming pools. The Georg-Arnhold-Bad pool looks fun and is on the edge of Großer Garten. Next time we’ll bring our swimsuits and goggles.
• The promise of churros and chocolate might well lure me to Nibs Cacao.
• Hey Dresden is a great resource for other family-friendly places in the city. This adventure playground with donkeys sounds like a winner.
• And finally, of course, Dresden’s famous Christmas markets sound magical.

Getting to and around Dresden

Dresden is easily reached by train or road from both Berlin and Prague – and in fact, makes a perfect stop if you are travelling between the two. From Berlin, trains take around 2.5 hours, and it is around 1.5 hours from Dresden to Prague. If you are interested in the practicalities of our train journey from Prague to Berlin (with a stop in Dresden), take a look at this post.

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Looking for car hire?

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Once in the city, most places are walkable. However, the trams provide a convenient way to get across Dresden. DVB (Dresden’s transport provider) has useful advice about ticket prices and routes.

Where to stay in Dresden for families

When travelling with my young kids, I’m always keen to stay in an apartment over a hotel. We found a lovely 2-bedroom apartment on Airbnb, which came with a small but well-equipped kitchen and a cute little terrace. The only downsides were the lack of a lift in the building and the fact it was a little out of town. That said, it was free to park on the street – which was a definite bonus for us.

If you prefer the ease of a hotel, the Holiday Inn Zwinger is situated in the centre of town. If squeezing into one standard room sounds a bit too cosy, larger and interconnecting rooms can be booked, and additional cots and beds provided. I also like the sound of the gym and sauna, although I suspect it is optimistic to think I would actually use them.

The Amedia Plaza Dresden also looks like another family-friendly option, featuring suites with an additional sofa bed. Or, check out the affordable Meininger Hotel Dresden Zentrum, which offers a choice of family rooms including options with bunk beds.

For the best of both worlds, Aparthotel AM Schloss sounds likes a tempting choice. There are good-looking one and two-bedroom apartments with kitchenettes, although a buffet breakfast is also available. You are again located bang in the centre of the Old Town, and the sound-proof rooms are bound to be popular with parents of light sleepers.

And in case you need a little more convincing about what an interesting, beautiful and family-friendly city Dresden is, here is a short video of us exploring:

If you have any Dresden tips, I would love you to share them below. Certainly, I don’t plan to leave it another 25 years before I return.

Some holiday reading

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