Last Updated on April 21, 2023
Behind my urbane exterior hides a dark secret. One of my favourite places in Prague is its largest park, Stromovka.
My former teenage self – who would have listed her personal hates as country walks and communing with anything resembling nature – would be mortified. But there you go. As I get older, I crave fresh air, open space and the tiny, heart-lifting delights of yellow daffodils or a darting red squirrel.
Yep, I have loved the time spent in this beautiful park, rushing behind scooters, feeding ducks and pushing swings ‘as high of the moon’. Although don’t get me wrong, I definitely haven’t gone full Bear Grylls. Part of Stromovka’s charm is its proximity to the civilized world of the city and its restaurants and cafes.
So, let me show you why I think visiting Stromovka should be high up on your Prague to-do list.
Spring blooms in Prague
Come the end of March, Stromovka begins to fill with pops of spring colour. These particular cotton candy blossom trees have been replaced with saplings this year – so it may be a few years before they are back to their full pink glory. Blossom hunters will still find some other mature fruit trees around the park, though. And then, of course, there are all the cheerful daffodils.
Lazy summer days in Prague
In the centre of the park, there are two large ponds, providing a home for ducks and swans. During the summer months, it is possible to dip your toes in the water while ferrying back and forth to a small island using the floating pontoon.
Stromovka makes an ideal venue for a stroll and a picnic during the long summer evenings. Between May and September, Containall is worth hunting down – as this cultural centre (housed in large containers) serves drinks and provides a venue for volleyball, film screenings, regular yoga workshops and music events.
Autumn beauty in Prague
Founded by Ottokar II of Bohemia, Stromovka began life in the 13th century as a royal game reserve. First opening to the public in the 18th century, this now landscaped park is home to many stunning vistas.
Cycling or strolling down the paths which wind through the established groves of trees – breathing in the cooler air and sense of ancient beauty – is a particular joy during October and November.
Winter fun in Prague
Stromovka makes a great playground on a snow day. We usually head to the slope just near the old Šlechta’s Restaurant (originally a 17th-century baroque summer palace) for some sledging.
A cafe with a side of play
Housed in a 1930s tram shed, Vozovna Stromovka is a reasonably priced cafe at the heart of the park. Popular with families, mainly because the outdoor seating overlooks a large playground, it can get busy on a sunny weekend. However, there are picnic benches on the other side of the playground too should you prefer to bring your own lunch.
Even more playgrounds
Near the south of the park, the Kaštánek playground was designed by Czech sculptors Olbram Zoubek and Eva Kmentová in 1961. Renovated in 2017, it’s still providing Brutalist fun over 50 years later.
To find it, catch a tram from town to Letenské náměstí and walk for five minutes along Čechova, past handsome mansion blocks. Alongside the retro playground, there is also a good-sized modern-day playground with sandpits, climbing frames, slides and swings.
On the northeast edge of Stromovka – near Prague’s Exhibition Grounds and the Maroldovo panorama – is a great collection of playgrounds, which include a parkour area and a skate park, as well as some great climbing structures, a large sandpit and some playhouses.
And then, of course, there is the long zip wire near the Gotthardská entrance gate.
And the stepping stones and seesaws and roundabouts to the north of the lakes.
A trip into outer space
Stromovka is also home to Prague’s Planetarium. The exhibition inside isn’t huge or state-of-the-art, but there are enough interactive elements (including a moon buggy) to make for a fun half an hour. The main attractions, however, are the audio-visual shows. Although most are in Czech, some can be accessed in English through the use of headphones. One of them is Polaris – a fun animated adventure where a polar bear and penguin investigate the seasons. Just make sure you arrive twenty minutes before the show and book your headphones when buying your tickets.
A thrilling fairground
Every February, to herald the beginning of spring, St Matthew’s Fair (Matějská pouť) bursts onto Prague’s exhibition grounds at the edge of Stromovka. Packed full of enough rides and candy floss to make your head spin for days – this is always a favourite outing for my son.
If you have a toddler to entertain, there are plenty of smaller rides and bouncy castles too. Each ride costs around 30 – 120 CZK.
The fair normally runs until the Easter bank holiday weekend. Outside of the spring months, there is normally a much smaller collection of rides operating on good weather days.
Unexpected buildings
In the 1920s, the Šlechta Restaurant was quite the place to be seen. However, this vibrant establishment, which was once a 17th-century summer palace hosting imperial coronation celebrations, fell into disrepair after the war. However, its fortunes look to be on the up. Renovations are currently underway, and it should soon be home to a restaurant and cultural centre hosting exhibitions and events.
And then, there’s the fun of finding the cute, sunken house.
Getting there and around
Stromovka has many entrance gates. If you are coming from Prague city centre, the easiest way is to take the tram (6,12 or 17) to Výstaviště Praha Holešovice. From here, you can walk into the park, through the Exhibition Grounds, close to the Planetarium.
Alternatively, you can catch many trams or the metro to Hradcanska. From there the Gotthardská entrance gate is about a 10/15-minute walk or you can jump on the 113 bus one stop to Sibiřské náměstí and walk five minutes from there.
To plan your journey (including barrier-free access), use the DPP website or the PID App which are available in English. It is now possible to buy tickets directly on the App.
Once in the park, there are many wide paths perfect for bikes, scooters and pushchairs.
Want more Prague inspiration?
Read 74 things to do in Prague with kids.
Looking for the best family-friendly hotels in Prague? Take a look at this helpful article.
And there’s plenty of inspiration for family day trips from Prague in this post.
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6 comments
Great article .Gorgeous light there ! Ill be missing Prague too in your posts .
Thank you, Carla! The first photo was taken just after sunrise and the light was magical. 🙂
My cravings for outdoor adventures increase each year as well. I can see my family going for a bike ride or walk in Stromovka. It certainly looks beautiful with all those pretty blooms.
Yes, it is a perfect spot for a family bike ride – and the cafe makes a perfect pit stop!
You couldn’t quite help yourself Jenny, could you – there may be wide open spaces here, but you had to find a sculpture park! I’m especially intrigued by the Slechta restaurant and all its ghosts. Prague is going to miss you and your munchkins.
Haha! You know me too well, Scarlett. I love nature – but a bit of retro sculpture doesn’t hurt either, does it?